Wednesday, Jun 10 2009 · Posted in Great Southern, Mount Barker, cabernet et al · Comment 

By Gary Walsh

As Mattinson writes so eloquently in the introduction to The Big Red Wine Book 2009/10

A great wine is a great miracle. It is the endplay of a remarkable endeavour, and it should be cherished.

And never was a quote so apposite as it is to this wine, dedicated to the memory of Ian Tyrer of Galafrey, who passed away in 2003. I’m not sure that this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is still commercially available, as it came along with a box of samples from this delightfully and quirkily named winery. Never mind, I’m enjoying it immensely, and I’m glad it made the trip across the Nullarbor safely to find an appreciative home on this cold Sydney winters night. Update’: winery says yes - still available.

Mint, licorice, sweet rolling tobacco, vanilla, truffle and ripe blackcurranty fruit - a comforting gentleman’s club scent that’s so very appealing to this taster, and for which it earns an extra point. It’s medium bodied and sweetly fruited with firm dry tannins that grip and hold, yet don’t dominate, although appropriate food is of great benefit. Fresh and expressive with an abundance of character, no shortage of length and no annoying excess of alcohol. Lovely wine - one where the total effect and charm overrides a more clinical and technical appraisal.

Rated : 92 Points